The
fertile plains of Punjab teem with many romances of the past. In the
land of the five rivers, stories and fables of the bygone times are all
pervasive in the region’s folklore. Though Sufi shrines are a constant
feature in the whole of the Sub-Continent, Punjab has the distinction of
being home to many eminent ones, from that of Madhu Lal Hussain to Farid Ganjshakar.
Amongst this pantheon of Sufis who’ve cemented their position in the
annals of history via their literary and spiritual works, Waris Shah
stands out. His tragic romance of ‘Heer Ranjha’ is
probably the best known work from this region. And it was towards his
shrine, and I found myself driving towards his shrine on a sunny autumn
morning from Lahore.
Waris Shah, a Punjabi Sufi poet of the Chishti order, was born in Jandiala Sher Khan (presently
in District Sheikhupura) in the 18th century, and was eventually buried
there with his father and brother. Though it is difficult to ascertain
the precise year of his birth, historians put it around 1720 - 1730.
However, it was in the village of Malka Hans near Pakpattan, that Shah wrote his magnum opus: ‘Heer’.
Waris Shah spent numerous years of his life residing adjacent to a mosque in the area, and the mosque has now been renamed Masjid Waris Shah in
his honor. Waris Shah lived during a time when India was going through
rapid change: Mughal power was faltering; religious reformation
movements were gaining momentum. European powers were knocking on South
Asian shores, and warring factions were constantly rebelling against
each other. These socio-political circumstances strongly shaped his
work, and ‘Heer’ would imbibe that tumultuous history of Punjab for eons
to come.
A
story famous for connecting Divine Love to Worldly Love, it’s
interesting to note that the story of Heer Ranjha did not originate with
Waris Shah. The fable of star-crossed lovers had been written about
before, by Punjabi poets Damodar Das, Ahmad Gujjar and
others. But it is Waris Shah’s version that is generally considered the
best and most popular. One could even go far as to call it an authority
on understanding the political, cultural and social dynamics of 18th
Century Punjab. It’s unfortunate that various verses were added to Waris
Shah’s original poem by later writers. It has now become quite
difficult to untangle these edited verses from those written by Waris
Shah, though academic inquiry has done the task with some degree of
validity.
The
tomb of Waris Shah lies about seven kilometers from the
Lahore-Islamabad motorway, at the Hiran Minar Exchange. The formal
construction of the tomb was taken up by the Government of Punjab in
1975, as the grave was in a dilapidated condition. The construction was
completed in 1978, and hence the structure is fairly modern in its
appeal. The architecture of the tomb, as well as the lay-out of the
adjoining grounds, borrows heavily from Mughal influences, resulting in a
sprawling space.
Octagonal
in shape with arched corridors, the structure is largely made of red
bricks. The exterior of the tomb has also been embellished with frescoes
from Multan. There is a library in the compound, and numerous shops
outside the main entrance selling food stuffs, collectibles, posters of
Waris Shah and books on Sufism and Sufi poetry. Most notable amongst
these are the various prints of Waris Shah’s ‘Heer’, some illustrated
with extremely fascinating and aesthetically unique paintings of the
lovers.
Waris
Shah’s tomb is nestled amidst swathes of green fields, and exists
against a serene backdrop of a laid-back life in the village. It’s
interesting to see that the tomb lacks the usual and expected frenzy
that is otherwise typical of Sufi shrines. But, looking at the place as a
whole, it seems fitting for the last abode of a man who wrote about the
purest expression of love. Dotted with palm and pine trees, the place
is calm and silent, save for the sounds of the dhol (drums) and the
ensuing dhamaal, during certain hours of the day.
The
air, though, is heavy with supplications of the visitors, many of them
lovers. Their prayers manifest in the threads around the pillars and the
locks that people put in order for their wishes of true love to be
fulfilled. There are always some qawaals near the tomb, reciting verses
from ‘Heer’. The melody and the words have the power to transport you to
a time that speaks of purity and great social change, yet they never
disturb Waris Shah’s eternal reunion with his Beloved.
Waris
Shah’s tomb is not just important for those interested in Sufism in
Pakistan. It celebrates the life and work of a literary and historical
icon that has shaped our understanding of Punjabi culture and
literature. Whether one seeks romantic or spiritual love, this shrine
and Waris Shah’s words, are bound to spellbind and touch your heart.
No comments:
Post a Comment